Musings of a Viking Wanderer - Part I
Like most of us, my sister, Elin, has the wandering gene - the urge to travel and see new and interesting places. As a family, we traveled extensively throughout Europe and the Far East, and Elin continues that tradition. Journeying to the four corners of the globe, there are few places she hasn't been! This summer she is in Iceland, my mother's homeland, helping with an elderly aunt and taking advantage of the opportunity to visit places she hasn't seen on previous trips. During college, she spent a summer at our aunt and uncle's farm on the east coast and learned the language (an easy task for her) and the ins and outs of sheep farming. Since many know little of Iceland, I convinced her to post a few travelogues of her wanderings around the land of our Viking ancestors.
Just a few facts about Iceland: It was originally settled by Norwegians around 874. Over the next centuries, it was populated by people of Nordic and Gaelic origin and ruled by Norway and Denmark. Iceland gained its independence from Danish rule in 1904. Iceland has some of the world's highest levels of economic freedoms as well as civil freedoms. The total population is roughly half that of San Francisco! As of 2007, Iceland is the most developed country in the world with fellow Nordic country Norway according to the Human Development Index and the fourth most productive country per capita. In 1980, Vigdís Finnbogadóttir became the first woman in the world to be elected the head of state in a democratic election. The Icelandic language remains little changed from the Old Norse - the old sagas can still be understood when reading them today. Try that with old English! (I still shudder when recalling Chaucer on Carmone's reading list). Called the land of Fire & Ice, Iceland is a mix of glaciers and lava beds due to its location over the Mid-Atlantic ridge and makes for a dramatic landscape unequaled on earth.
By Elin Pierce '78
Greetings from Isafjordur, Iceland!
Iceland really has to be SEEN and experienced in person. No matter how much one reads about Iceland, nothing compares to walking the rugged landscape and feeling the mist on your face from the thundering waterfalls. My writing and pictures may bring a limited sense of familiarity of my ancestral home, but you really have to come here and experience it in the 3-dimensional, using all 5 senses - to get a true impression of this amazing country.
I am now writing from the town of Isafjordur, which is in the wild and rugged northwestern-most region of Iceland. The Vestfjordur (West Fjords) region is a really exciting place, truly out of the beaten path of most tourists, yet it has some of the most dramatic landscape in all of Iceland. It has several huge peninsulas, each criss-crossed by fjords, inlets and bays, mountains everywhere, many of them topped with glaciers or snow, with sheer cliffs steeply dropping to the sea. Waterfalls are everywhere, many of them cutting into the terraced, rocky layers of the mountainsides. The northernmost of the peninsulas can only be accessed on foot or by boat. Imagine that! On the map of Iceland above, you can see the West Fjord region is the peninsular area that juts out toward the NW, connected only by a slender neck that is about 8 km wide, just south of Holmavik. Below, you can see on the map where I am now, in the town of Isafjordur, which means Ice-fjord, and is just about the furthest northwest you can get to by car here in Iceland. It is considered the capital of this region, being the largest and busiest town, but is tiny by our standards (pop. 3,946). This map makes West Fjords look small, but don't let that fool you. It's nearly 8,600 sq mi of rugged countryside!
So I'm now sipping a good cup of coffee in a little guest-house (otherwise known as a bed & breakfast place) in Isafjordur, having just had a great Icelandic breakfast: smorgasbord style, with all kinds of delicious things to eat including typical Icelandic foods like skyr (a yogurt-like dairy product uniquely Icelandic) which I LOVE, pickled herring and fresh bread and even cod liver oil for your good health! By the way, Iceland & Norway make the best and most effective cod-liver oil (source of vitamin-D and the good omega-s) in the world. Sure wish I could eat enough to last me all day!
I made the journey to Isafjordur yesterday - it took me all day to get here by bus and mini-van from Borgarnes, which I did not get to see at ALL as it was pouring rain and very windy - the worst weather I've experienced this summer. Fortunately for me, the owner of the place I stayed in gave me a ride into town. Actually this gesture of kindness has been really typical of all my stays around the country so far - people are extremely helpful and generous. Don't know whether it's because I can speak the language (but am obviously a visiting half-native) or whether they would be so kind with most tourists, but I have been very fortunate, and thus have enjoyed myself immensely! Even the bus drivers have sometimes given me their own "special" cut-rates, and asked me to sit up front with them! What a blast.
Anyway, yesterday's journey was memorable. Got into Borgarnes in the pouring rain, and caught the bus (full-size this time) - just to find that I would join a whole troop of US Boy Scouts from Northwest Georgia on their way to a Scout Jamboree! They were of course, in complete awe of the country and were convinced I was a local (I didn't crush that image). I pointed out on the way a couple of places of interest, like I was the expert (!), such as the side-valley where Erik-the-Red ("Eirikur Raudi") actually used to live and his homestead. Erik-the-Red was the first European to settle Greenland, and contrary to what most people learned in school, his son, Leifur Eiriksson, the first European to explore America. An hour's drive to the north from there, I jumped off the bus at the cross-roads and waited for my connection to Holmavik in the NW, while they continued NE to Akureyri.
The bus that travels from the cross-roads at Bru to Holmavik in the north is just a 16-person mini-van, and as usual, there were very few passengers -- only 2 Icelanders and me. About 10 km up the road, the pavement ended and I felt that I was back off the beaten path -- I love that! The road hugs the coastline here, and there are no towns, just a farm here and there along the way. Sheep farms mostly, each with their own name-sign (no street numbers here)! Most names are based on the landscape characteristics, like "Red Delta" and so on. The rain stopped and the sun came through the clouds now and then, creating a dramatic backdrop. Lots of seabirds, especially eiders along the way (literally 1000's), which Icelanders in these parts appreciate because many farmers regularly harvest their down for commercial use.
We circumnavigated every bay, fjord, and inlet until we got to Holmavik - and I took tons of photos (in between the pot-holes and washboard stretches of gravel). It was just grand. At Holmavik, the wind was blowing strongly from the SW and bitterly cold, so most folks packed into a cramped cafeteria at the town's only 2-pump open gas station. My bus from there was with the local West Fjord bus company, owning a huge fleet of all of 4 minivans, all unmarked!. The driver was very chatty and animated, rattling away in Icelandic with me about all kinds of subjects. What a ride - the landscape was most dramatic and in some places, the gravel road made very steep ascents and windy descents with a sheer drop-off to one side (absolutely no guard rails anywhere along the way), and I was glad I am not afraid of heights!
The mountains rose steeply around us on all sides, and I could have spent the entire day there just photographing. The waterfalls cascaded down the mountainsides in small rivulets in so many places, I wondered how they kept the roads designed so that the water didn't gouge them out! If you take another look at the map, you can see how we looped in and out of each fjord on our way NW to Isafjordur. At last, we reached one of the peninsulas where the big glacier north across the fjord, Drangajokull, appeared, crouched among the craggy mountaintops. I was focused on that and asked the driver what the huge waterfall below it was called. Just as he was pointing out the scenery, up jumped a young sheep from the ditch beside the road.
These sheep are all over the country and are left to wander freely in the summer to graze outside of the farmed pastures of grass that are harvested for the winter when they are kept indoors in barns. Unfortunately, they are not smart about traffic (or anything), and drivers frequently have to slow down and honk to get them off the roads. This one was too quick for the driver and it somehow seemed to dive right under our minivan - and then - a big clunk somewhere right under my feet! UGH. Well, a bit of drama, but at least the sheep was dead instantly on impact and the owner notified (to be later compensated). The driver however, seemed not to be so well for the rest of the drive, and at one point, I seriously considered taking over as he vacillated between having a hard time staying awake and being very fidgety!!
I wondered, as we drove up and down the steep mountains and sharp curves at breakneck speeds, why in the world I didn't have a will. Then again, what the heck do I need a will for - the only thing I have of value is my life, but I don't particularly want to give that away to anyone, least of all not this driver!! As we were rounding the last peninsula and Isafjordur came into view, I knew we were going to make it alive, and I could finally relax a little bit. Just as I started to ease back into my seat, I heard a loud SWOOOSH! Right over our heads, a commercial plane came swinging over, angling steeply down. (I must have said Holy Shit, even though I almost never swear!) I had been so busy looking at the town across the fjord that I didn't see the little airport tucked on the only flat point of land in the fjord.
Exiting the bus on slightly shaky feet in Isafjordur, I was exhausted, needless to say, and putting up the tent in the campsite was definitely NOT an option. And thank goodness I did not, because the wind later in the evening turned into a gale and that little tent would have been flapping so loud I might as well have tried to sleep in a war-zone! My driver kindly drove me to the nearest ATM (as his company only took cash!), and then to the nearest B&B.
And now, I am in a little wooden house and very cozy. Like so many places in Iceland, this house has a lot of history behind it. Everything on this isolated rock in the middle of the Atlantic is used very frugally, which means nothing is thrown away or used only once. This house, for example, was built as the local hospital in 1896, and was very small - so small that in 1926, they had to build a bigger one. For many years, this fishing village was the hub of the region and was actually considered the capital of Iceland. In 1900, this hospital was visited by the King of Denmark, which ruled over Iceland at that time, and there are some old photographs of that on the wall here. The house was eventually converted to a home and is now a B&B. Last night I shared a dorm room here with 3 others - two young Italians on a work-volunteer vacation here, and a Chinese woman neuroscientist now living in NY, having completed a PhD in Stanford & Harvard! It’s amazing to me the variety of people I run into on my travels – stay tuned for further adventures from Iceland!
Pictures: #1 - View of Isafjordur from the mountainside coming into town #2 - Map of Iceland #3 - Inset of the rugged northwestern region of Iceland #4 - Another view of Isafjordur #5 - Elin and one of our cousin's daughters with an Icelandic pony at their farm in Egilsstadir #6 - A view of the glacier, Dragnajokull from across the bay #7 - A view of Dragnajokull in winter (by Oddur Jons - Flickr) #8 - The rugged terrain of our cousin's farm on the eastern side of Iceland.



























I am amazed that after all the years, we’re still a close knit group. That despite being flung to the four corners of the world, we still travel great distances to see each other every few years to rejoice in our memories and share our triumphs and tragedies. I hope my daughter and her friends do the same years from now. That special friendship and bonding is why I love going to the Wagner Reunions - because despite the added pounds and wrinkles, we still see each other as those young kids, ready to commence and take that journey into life. 













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